Alpena, Michigan

As I mentioned in my past post, Alpena Michigan checked almost all of our boxes for the ideal Loop stopover. they were:

1)  Easy Entrance (and exit) From the Harbor/Marina -- after several days of dodging high spots and fighting winds to enter the harbors along Lake Huron, our entrance to Alpena as smooth and uneventful with plenty of water under the bow

2) Convenient Location: Within view of the marina was a shopping center with a big and clean laundromat, a Dollar General, and a Sav-a-Lot market. A marine store was even right in the parking lot.  Within a 10 minute walk the Black Sheep Pub offered a nice selection of beers on tap, live music and a lively local crowd.

3) Good Dog Walking Space.  The waterfront along the Alpena Municipal Marina has a nice flower lined walkway that was perfect for walking Ham.  And they had plenty of dog waste bags available.

4) A Farmers Market  -- Our timing hasn't allowed us to attend many markets this summer, so I was thrilled to have a Saturday lay day. The Alpena Saturday Farmers Market was well attended and well stocked. There was lots of zuchinni and onions, along with greens, currants, pierogies and Pasties (meat filled turnovers that are a local favorite).  And, there were tables and table of bread -- simple country white, wheat and more artisan options like Rosemary-Raisin.

5) A Local Festival  -- We didn't plan it, but we managed to arrive in Alpena for the last few days of the annual Michigan Brown Trout Festival.  Okay, so I never even knew there was such a thing as Brown Trout -- and to think it has a week long festival dedicated to it!!

Funny Story:  When we first heard about the Brown Trout Festival it reminded me of FREEDOM's trip south last fall with Nelly Crockett and the Thomas J.  When we neared Southport, NC Tom (of the Thomas J) said, "They have a Mullet Festival  in Southport -- usually about this time of year."  Well, Mimi (aboard Nelly Crockett) and I looked at each other, eyes filled with excitement and we said in unison, "A Mullet Festival?!?"  The mullet hairdo? Business in the front, party in the back?Visions of a festival full of Uncle Danny's from Full House danced in my head!

Then Tom continued..."Yeah, they have mullet fishing competitions, mullet cook-offs, it's lots of fun!  

"Oh, the fish," we cried. Never mind.....Meanwhile, back to the Brown Trout Festival:

The marina parking lot was lined with trucks and trailers awaiting the return of their owners after a day on the water seeking the biggest Lake Trout, Brown Trout, Walleye, Salmon (another thing I never knew -- Wild Salmon can be found in the Great Lakes, not just in Alaska. In this case they are Chinook Salmon. This trip has been very educational for me).

Each afternoon the fishermen/women brought their catch filled coolers to the main tent where the fish were weighed before the crowd.  The biggest fish were then displayed in a Pepsi cooler next to the beer tent.

Ok, bad picture, but you get the idea -- Fish tagged and labeled in a Pepsi Cooler.

At night bands played in two venues and lots of typical fair treats were available: popcorn, burgers, cotton candy and Elephant Ears: A 12" diameter piece of fried dough coated in cinnamon sugar.

Funny story#2:  When the Cap'n first saw one on a plate he leaned over and said, "That pizza is really burnt."  

Anyway, as we listened to the Bluegrass band on Friday night  I noticed the mother and son behind us were enjoying one of these "Burnt pizzas". Close up I could tell it had sugar, not overcooked cheese on top.  "Excuse me, I said, We aren't from around here. What are you eating?"  "It's an Elephant Ear! They are addictive, and you can only get them at fairs. Here, try some..."  Yum -- of course got our own later on.

We really enjoyed being in town for the festival.  Lots of fishing boats to watch come in an out of the harbor each day, friendly people, good music and  a chance to experience a truly local event just steps from FREEDOM.

6) Local History:  We enjoy a museum or other opportunity to learn about the history of the port. The Thunder Bay Maritime Museum provided us with a glimpse into the role played by the Great lakes in westward expansion, and into the history of Great Lakes shipwrecks. Knowing we were headed back into Lake Huron the next morning, we looked closely at the maps showing where the ships still litter the lake floor. We were relieved to learn that many of the wrecks were caused by ships running into one another, not by the shoals and rocks reaching far from the shorelines. Although those natural elements did play a big part, along with the ferocity of lake storms.

So there you go, that's what makes a great stop:  Local color and convenience.

Another note about Alpena:  Just north of the marina was an industrial complex with all sorts of ores/natural materials piled up on shore. There was one very large white-ish pile. I asked the dock hand what it was. "Salt, he said, You know, for the roads in the winter. A freighter just pulled up and dropped it off."

See the sand-like pile to the left of the silo: See the black lump on the other side? That is the same pile -- just half of it is covered in plastic. That is all salt for the Alpena County (1,695 sq miles)  roads next winter! The dockhand said it would all be used.   Yikes

The Sunrise Side of the State

Sunrise over Lake Huron, Harrisville Harbor, Michigan

Farewell Ohio, Hello Michigan!

All the guides said we would be happy to be off Lake Erie -- actually we had a great time and some great weather there. Yes, we had to dodge a few weather windows, but a few extra days in Buffalo and Vermilion was okay.

The currents in the Detroit River and the St.Clair River were also to be feared. Yes, 4 kts on the bow entering Lake Huron was hard -- but FREEDOM is a sturdy gal and we made it through.

In between the Detroit River and Lake St. Clair we enjoyed one of our best stops: The Grosse Point Yacht Club. We have docked at a lot of clubs and we have visited a lot of clubs but this was the best: great dock hands, a great view of the lake, lively pool, and the best meal we have had on the Loop.

Statues both nautical and whimsical dot the landscaped grounds of the Grosse Point Yacht Cl

 We left Grosse Point in a light fog -- thank goodness for AIS* and the ability to see freighters on our navigation screen even if we cannot see them across the water.

*The Automatic Identification System (AIS) is an automatic tracking system used on ships and by vessel traffic services (VTS) for identifying and locating vesselsby electronically exchanging data with other nearby ships, AIS base stations, and satellites. When satellites are used to detect AIS signatures then the term Satellite-AIS (S-AIS) is used. AIS information supplements marine radar, which continues to be the primary method of collision avoidance for water transport.

A marine traffic coordinator using AIS and radar to manage vessel traffic.

An AIS-equipped system on board a ship presents the bearing and distance of nearby vessels in a radar-like display format.

A graphical display of AIS data on board a ship.

Information provided by AIS equipment, such as unique identification, position, course, and speed, can be displayed on a screen or an ECDIS. AIS is intended to assist a vessel's watchstanding officers and allow maritime authorities to track and monitor vessel movements. AIS integrates a standardized VHF transceiver with a positioning system such as a GPS orLORAN-C receiver, with other electronic navigation sensors, such as a gyrocompass or rate of turn indicator. Vessels fitted with AIS transceivers and transponders can be tracked by AIS base stations located along coast lines or, when out of range of terrestrial networks, through a growing number of satellites that are fitted with special AIS receivers which are capable of deconflicting a large number of signatures.

The International Maritime Organization's International Convention for the Safety of Life at Sea requires AIS to be fitted aboard international voyaging ships with gross tonnage (GT) of 300 or more, and all passenger ships regardless of size.^[1]

You can find FREEDOM on AIS by going to marinetraffic.com. Look for FREEDOM listed as a sailing vessel ( that is how we were listed back in our sailboat days and it is difficult to change)

The fog didn't last long and we had a good trip across Lake St. Clair. At one point we heard loud shrieks coming from young voices. Alarmed, I jumped out the port side door to see a small bow rider captained by a dad and filled with a gaggle bathing suited girls happily screaming as they bounced across our wake. That's what summer is all about.

Windmills lined the Lake Huron shore as we headed up the thumb, first to Port Huron and then to Harbor Beach. 

After an easy night at River Street Marina in Harbor Beach, watching local boaters pass by along the Black River, we headed towards Harbor Beach in search of protection from the approaching compact cold front. The big lesson of the day was always call the Harbor Master before entering the harbor! Sometimes the charts do lie, and  fortunately we connected with Jeff just in time to avoid a 5' shoal.   The cold  front hit with lots of wind and we did a number to the dock -- getting on and off was just another adventure!

The Cap'n securing the lines at Harbor Beach. Note the angry Lake on the other side of the breakwall. The wall did its job and held back the stormy waters Harbor Master Jeff hanging on to the slightly tilted dock we left behind in Harbor Beach

Although we were in Harbor Beach for two nights we never really got to town.  When the winds died down a bit Wednesday afternoon we headed out for a walk along a wild flower lined path installed and maintained by the local utility company. That brought us within a block of the downtown area, but we turned around and headed back the 9/10 of a mile to FREEDOM. 

Things looked better on Thursday, so we headed out.  Maybe not such a good idea -- and we ended up with another one of those days with the Admiral and the Boat Dog in the saloon and the Cap'n in the Pilot House. By early afternoon we had crossed Saginaw Bay,  the lake had calmed down and before long we reached Harrisville - no longer on the thumb, but heading up the pointer finger.  The State of Michigan operates reasonably priced, well protected marinas along the Lake Huron and Lake Michigan coasts. Each of our stops this week has been at a state run harbor.  They may not offer the amenities of facilities we are used to along the ICW,  but they have certainly provided us with a 'port in the storm' and then some.  Of special note are the flower borders that line the harbors and/or parking lots.  

When I typed this post we were docked in Alpena, MI.  A town I had never heard of until about 10 days ago, but a place that has checked most, if not all, of our boxes on the ideal Loop stopover. Details in my next post....

Until then, more pictures from the week

We didn't see any freighters as we crossed Lake Erie, but they have become constant companions ever since the Detroit River.

Not sure if a storm or a freighter got this buoy Not sure if a storm or a freighter got this buoy We have noticed this across the lakes: mini-patios set up alongside boat slips. Some have tables, umbrellas, maybe a grill and others we have seen have gazebos complete with fridges. We love the idea!  This was in Port Huron, MI.

The Henry Ford

We spent the better part of last Saturday at The Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn, Michigan. The museum is dedicated to American ideas and innovations. We loved looking at the old cars -- today's don't hold a candle to their style. What we really loved, though, was the tour of the Rouge Factory where F-150 trucks are assembled. We could have spent all day peering over the railing. Unfortunately, no cameras were allowed, so you'll just have to go there yourself to see the magic happen. The employees all seemed very happy. I decided this meant that you could count on the quality of these trucks. When I mentioned this to the Cap'n he pointed out that a Saturday shift brings time and a half. Of course they were happy!! But, I also think the trucks are top notch.

Meanwhile, here are some pics from the museum:

President Eisenhower's Bubble Top Car

FDR's Presidential Car -- designed to get him in and out easily, but it looks awkward to me

Two Classics from 1957

The much maligned Edsel. Detractors said the grill looked like a Buick eating a lemon. I like it.

I think our Loop experience is the same: :to meet people, listen to yarns and feel the seasons change."

There were only 6 Bugatti's built. Built: 1931. Price: $43,000!

The Pierce Arrow, built in Buffalo, NY, details below

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Personally, I think 1956 products stand out....like this T-Bird

Lake Erie Love

Ohio Loves Lake Erie and We Loved Lake Erie in Ohio (except that nasty bit between Vermilion and Put in Bay

As I write, it's a rainy Saturday morning in Wyandotte, Michigan after a bright and busy week on Lake Erie. We spent last weekend at the Lakeside Yacht Club in Cleveland -- a lively friendly spot in a well protected location. While in town we toured the Great Lakes Brewing Company and had a great dinner of pierogi and sausages on the patio of their brew pub.  There were lots of locals and visitors out and about enjoying the perfect weather, and celebrating LeBron's return and the city's selection as the site of the 2016 Republican National Convention. LeBron was not in town to celebrate-- he was in Las Vegas playing in a charity basketball before heading to Brazil for the World Cup finals. When he does get there he will be greeted by a season of sold out games and a city full of optimism.

 We spent Sunday afternoon touring the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum.  That was lots of fun. It was a great mix of things to see, hear and interact with. Music, of course, was everywhere. I favored the exhibits tracing the history of rock and roll from early American music sung in country hollers and porches in the south to the top 40 hits on American Bandstand. Memorabilia was everywhere: from Michael Jackson's glove to Janis Joplin's personalized porsche, and lots of handwritten lyrics by Bruce Springsteen, John Lennon, Billy Joel, etc.

Janis' Porsche

Bruuuuce!

The Glove

A little bit of history

From Cleveland we continued to hug the lake shore as we headed west to Vermilon, This proved to be one of our favorite stops so far on the Loop. The Vermilion Yacht Club is nestled on a triangular piece of land, well protected but within sight of the lake, in an area called Vermilion Lagoons ( the Venice of the Great Lakes).  Our spot along the wall was perfect for watching the fishing boats and the sailing classes come and go. No foot traffic passing the boat meant we could pull up the blinds and not feel like animals in the zoo, as we do at many docks.

Favorite comment we heard from a passing boat: "I wonder how they get the dinghy off the roof?" "Maybe they just wait for the boat to sink and they drive it off."

We spent two nights in Vermilion, chatting with other boaters at the club, eating dinner on the deck of the well known restaurant Chez Francois, taking a bike ride to pick up some provisions, and steering the dinghy through the lagoons to admire the beautiful homes and flowers that line them ( it reminded us of the ICW in south Florida -- just with white clapboard not coral colored stucco),

The Bridge to Vermilion Lagoons. Love that old boat, they are everywhere on the Great Lakes -- no salt.

FREEDOM at the dock in Vermilion

We could have spent a few more days there, and perhaps should have. Our ride across the lake from Vermilion to Put in Bay was alarming for Ham, nauseating for the Admiral and lonely for the Cap'n as he sat alone in the pilot house negotiating the nasty winds and waves for which Lake Erie is known.

Okay, let's see a show of hands: Who has ever heard of the Ohio Islands in Lake Erie?  The Caribbean of the Great Lakes?  Not this born-and-raised-on-the-other-end-of-the-lake-girl.  North of the ports of Huron and Sandusky sit this string of islands: Kelley's, South, Middle and North Bass Islands, Gibraltar Island ( owned by the U of Ohio for research purposes) and Rattlesnake Island on the US side, and Pelee Island across the border in Canada. Put in Bay is the most popular location for visitors arriving by private vessels and ferry boats.  Summer weekends are known for their sun and rum drenched days and large rafts of boats at the docks and anchorages.

The Cap'n in the "other Keys"

Places we've been and places we're going ( and a bad angle)

Long before it was a summer destination, the Ohio Islands served a key role in the War of 1812. On September 10, 1813 27 year old Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry and his men were in position on South Bass Island to spot the British Fleet. When asked what to do with the fleet after their capture the Commodore replied "Put 'em in the Bay".
Perry's International Victory and Peace Memorial stands 352 feet above the island.  It is the tallest Doric column in the world and offers visitors an impressive view from the top. The memorial not only pays tribute to Perry's victory but to the lasting peace between the US, Canada and Great Britain.
We never did make it to the top of the memorial, but we did rent a golf cart and drive around the island. We also met fellow Seleners and Loopers Bart and Beth aboard Seanna.

We are seeing more big, deep draft boats as we head west and north, and that means more marinas that can accommodate us.  But, we do miss anchoring. Lake Erie, because of  winds and depths, did not offer many protected anchorages. Hopefully we will find at least a few spots along Lake Huron to drop the hook and enjoy the serenity that comes from a night away from the dock. Our budget will also be relieved......

Meanwhile, we are off to the Henry Ford museum in Dearborn: a nine acre single floor space that "brings American ideas and innovations to life."  Details ( and pictures from our past week) to follow....

Lake Erie Time

With tropical sunsets and clear blue-green water, Lake Erie can look like the Caribbean!

With our radar arch reattached and after nearly a week in Buffalo filled with family, fun, fireworks, chores, errands, chicken wings, beef on weck and waiting for a weather window,  we have officially entered the Great Lakes. Like LeBron, we are Cleveland bound, with a stop last night at the Erie Yacht Club and tonight at Geneva Sate Park. The lake is calm, dotted with fishing boats, and Caribbean green. It has been a beautiful and uneventful passage across Lake Erie from New York to Pennsylvania and now Ohio -- other than a visit from the Coast Guard about an hour ago.  Boardings are always a bit nerve wracking  but fortunately Ham didn't growl at them and our inspection went well.

Here are a few photos from the past week:

International Railroad Bridge lifting for FREEDOM and the Peace Bridge between Buffalo and Fort Erie, Canada

Lots to look at on the Black Rock Canal

Elementary school friend and cousin-in-law: Monie,  my 90 year old mother and my cousin Clare, Erie Basin Marina,
July 4th 

Party on the Calypso Deck: Hugh, Chet, Holly, Ham, Peter, Nick, Jack

Rainbow over Buffalo

17 Days on the Erie Canal

Scene on the Erie Canal:

Bridges at intersection of Erie Canal and Genesee River -- and a dredger clearing the crossing

A provisioning trip in Brewerton, NY

We saw lots of old ads on buildings -- this one was in really good shape

A little too close for comfort

Our "crew" resting between locks

We saw lots of these rental canal boats -- looks like a fun way to spend a week

Murals along the Canal

We finally found Sal in Fairpoirt

A view from the top of the Lockport Stair Step lock

The last bridge on the Canal -- thank goodness!

Today, July 2, 2014 at 1:42 PM we tied FREEDOM to the wall in Tonawanda New York and completed our 341 mile, 35 lock and who knows how many bridges journey across the Erie Canal.  We never imagined the sense of accomplishment we would feel. It was more adventuresome, more physically demanding and more fun than we might have predicted.

Certain memories stand out:

• the wonderful people we have met from Loopers to LockMasters to Locals in the many towns we visited.
• the Locks and the Lines and the Lifts and the Falls. From the 40' lift near Little Falls to the stair step locks of Lockport we hung on and never ceased to be amazed
• the volunteers, the overflowing flowerpots and the American flags that welcomed us in most towns and cities
• the ever changing landscape from the wide Mohawk River valley to our peaceful early morning trip across Oneida Lake to the tree lined "Clinton's Ditch" as the final third of the Canal is known
• fisher-people everywhere and the friendly waves from children and adults who lined the banks of the canal to watch us pass

Now it is time to celebrate the Fourth with family in Buffalo, re-attach the radar arch, re-provision and get ready for the Great Lakes!